We just came out of the Peruvian jungle (we made it!) and what a fantastic adventure. If thoughts of snakes and hidden spiders and foraging wild pigs comes to mind -- you've imagined it well. Add humidity, heat, and mud and your idea is better. Throw in swamp, mosquitos, cayman (crocodile things) and ants and you're almost perfect. But round it out with macaws, rainbows, monkeys, tropical flowers, parrots, weasels, and butterflies and you've got the photographic feast! Located in southwestern Peru, we travelled 3 hours up river from the nearest arrival town in a long wooden boat to find the Tambopata refuge. Our first night was glorious -- nestled in beds, covered by mosquito nets, in a thatched wood lodge with no walls, we experienced the most torrential downpour, thunder and lightning. These are the sights and sounds that one cannot convey. With all the water came special appearances of various creatures like the coral snake and a variety of frogs. The next day we tromped back to the boat in our wellington boots for a further 5 hours into the jungle. Our accomodations were slightly less luxurious there and suffice it to say that nothing dried past damp, everything grew damper and our camera suffered the worst of it. Although it doesn't work now, we trust that we caught many of the images and will be able to gather them from the memory card at a later date.
It really was remarkable how many things we saw. Our guides were essential in finding the camouflaged creatures. We learned to listen for birds in the canopy, the rustling of leaves, the grunting of the pecary pigs or the distant roar of red howler monkeys. We learned to respect the small things -- bullet ants, so named because of how it feels when they bite, or the white scorpian, whose sting Mary felt firsthand! We trudged through thick mud swamps and swung from vines (OK, we didn't really, but it was fun to imagine).
The river is brown and houses sting rays, pirahanas and the lurking cayman crocodiles. During a fun "fishing" expedition, we arrived at a tributary by boat when the guides said "Okay, we have to get out and cross over there". Get out of the boat? You mean, get in the water? Yep. Chase told me later that one of the guides told him there were mini pirahana fish that swim into your swim trunks and... , so he wasn't thinking about his feet at that point. Some of us didn't have water sandals on, so we had to go barefoot. There were so many rocks on the bottom that it was quite painful. We split up the sandals we had, so everyone had at least one. But I got to a point when we walked over a stretch of land, and I said, "You all go ahead, I'll wait here." So they continued and I enjoyed the rushing creek as the sun was setting. Then I looked closely at a "rock" and realized that it was the peering eyes of a cayman. I got this on the camera!! It wasn't too close, but I stood up and grabbed a little rock just to be safe. Then I looked up river at the group. They had just crossed the creek where this guy was lurking! They say that some of the locals swim in the river, but never would at night, because of the cayman. It was really getting late, so I waved my arms for them to come back. Miguel came first with Jane. He had a machete, so I decided he would be the one to know about the cayman. He grinned when I showed him my photo of the beast. Most of the group caught up to us and I thought it was best if they knew nothing. Miguel tossed a few large stones into the river before we all held hands and began to cross. My heart was racing and I think I was pulling a little frantically, but I tried to to simply encourage everyone to step lively. One guide and a friend of ours were a bit further behind. They decided to save their aching arches and
swam across the shallow stretch. I'm glad I didn't have to apologize for not warning them. We all made it safely back to the boat and a sliver moon was low in the sky.
Wonderful to be in Lima for one night -- dry air and a laundrymat. We miss the crickets, but we won't forget.