
Charlie: El Calafate, which sits on the south shore of Argentina’s biggest lake (Lago Argentino), is a small tourist town of only 7000 locals, but swells to over 200k during the busy summer season. It is said that 95% of all tourists who come here are foreigners, the big attraction being the Los Glaciares National Park. The park is named for the glaciers on the Ice Caps - the largest continental ice extension after Anctartica- which occupies almost half its area. There are 47 big glaciers, the most famous of which is the Perito Moreno glaciar (above). There are also more than 200 smaller gl

aciers, unconnected to the Ice Caps
Elsewhere in the world, glaciers form higher than 8000 feet above sea level but here, because of the Ice Caps, at only 5000 feet above sea level and huge pressure of the ancient snowfall on top, they flow down to lake level, allowing the amazing view and ability to approach so closely.
Colleen: Words cannot describe (at least not mine) our last week of seeing God's creation. We have seen these incredible glaciers, by land and by boat, and we remain speechless in their enormity. The sound of a crashing pieces off the face were unbelievable. From El Calafate we booked a ride in a Land Rover with a great local guide to an estancia, or ranch, 120 miles away. Thinking that would be a smooth go for a couple of hours was not to remember where we were. Yes, an easy flight for a crow, but the roads for automobiles are far inferior. One could call it bumpy, but you'd miss the images of rocks, ditches, desert, rivers across the way, and as the day became night, rabbits scurrying out of our path like rats leaving a lit kitchen. Five hours later, in the dark, with sore bums, we arrived at El Condor. We woke up the next morning and saw the lakes and surrounding mountains that we'd unknowingly passed the night before.
Our first horseback ride took us into those mountains up to the Condorera -- cliffs where the great condors roost and fly. Day two brought iffy weather, but our wranglers decided we should ch

ance the five hour adventure in order to arrive at La Nana for an overnight stay. No electricity, no refrigeration, no telephones, and the most awesome landscape I may have ever seen. Heaven. We lodged in a little house they've built there devoting an entire day to fishing, reading, and hiking. Heaven. So far from civilization, stars that fill the sky to a milky white in their abundance...Heaven. The next day we headed back to El Condor, galloping through trails and across meadows at breakneck speed. Heaven. The ranchers welcomed us home with a barbecued lamb dinner and we met new guests from Slovenia and Mexico.

All of the lakes have this milky green color because of a calcium mineral that comes from the glacier ice.
On our return trek to the Calafate airport, we saw more guanacos (llama

s), a black eagle, choiques (ostriches), an armadillo, and lots of sheep. Legend has it that whoever eats the berries from a Calafate bush will return to the area, so we loaded up on fresh jam! Heaven.