Week 3 in Santiago

On an uneventful day Charlie and I usually get up about 7:30am and have a couple hours before we wake the kids. Two days ago I was reading on our bed and I felt the familiar yet slightly altered sensation of an earthquake. Different, due to the fact that I was 16 stories high so it was more of a sway that a rumble. Life in an apartment has shown us all kinds of idiosyncratic amusements. Call me sick, but I do enjoy a good session of balcony-watching-the-neighbors’-lives-through-windows. Jimmy Stewart had nothing on me -- okay, yes he did. I'm not using a zoom lens to get details. And there don’t seem to be any bugs here, so we delightedly have the windows wide open all day & night. That brings the sounds of sirens or raucous reaction to the soccer matches and smells of other kitchenettes or cigarette smoke from below us. That is to say nothing of all we’ve gained from elevator rides and doormen . . . apartment living has been a big part of our world abroad!
Jane and I are thrilled to be able to shop for our own ingredients and cook healthy meals. She has accused me in the past of not teaching her how to do laundry or cook before she leaves for college, so look what a year stuck with Mom can bring! We've found that Argentine or Chilean women don't have large recipe boxes. They learn how to make the typical foods, such as empanadas or tomato salad, and that is what they cook...forever. A trip to the grocery store takes longer than usual because we need to figure out what things are in translation. It’s never exactly like Trader Joe’s or Safeway, but we have fun finding close seconds. The farmer’s market on Wednesdays and Saturdays don’t even set up their stalls until 9:30am, so it works perfectly for the Latin sleep-in-eat-later routine. We always have to gauge every shopping trip with the amount that we can carry home. The supermarket is only a block away, but a couple bottles of water and a melon and your arms are falling off.
We had a short week at the school due to Good Friday, but we also did a little painting work at another of VE Global’s institutions, which is a “baby house” or Casa de Guagua (pronounced wa-wa :). Upon arrival we were introduced to several of the ladies who work there and it took some time to get through all the kissing-the-cheek-hellos before we got down to business. Can you indulge us when we get back and do the same? It’s such a nice custom. Nobody in Argentina or Chile would ever walk in to an office and wave hello to the gang – no, everyday they greet each person with a kiss on the cheek as if they’ve never met them before. And they do the same upon leaving! I like it. But again, it takes time…
Well, Mary won March Madness. She was thrilled with the 10,000 peso pot. The zeros just make you feel rich. We don’t have to remember that it only means $17.

Santiago's Children (Charlie)

Can you say “fut-bol” ?!? The excitement is quite palpable here and continues to build, as national soccer teams globally enter the final stages of their qualifier matches for the 2010 FIFA World Cup in South Africa. Chile currently holds 3rd place in the South America division standings and only the top four teams will advance to next year’s big event. The national soccer stadium is less than a mile from our apartment and the roar of the crowd (as well as from our neighbors in nearby apartment buildings) can be easily heard with our windows open. With all the rich history of soccer success in Brazil and Argentina, it would be welcome news indeed to give Chile a taste from the cup.

But even without the soccer triumphs, this country scores higher than their peers in several categories. The economic growth story in Chile continues to impress – sure, this year will probably be a downer like everywhere else, but at least its severity will be tempered by support from the government’s Copper and Social Stabilization Funds. The planning and foresight in investment and infrastructure in Chile has been exemplary (private pension funds, decent health care, world class metro transportation, etc) and should keep this country in the lead for years to come.

Yesterday I had the good fortune of meeting Steve Reifenberg, who is the Director of the Regional Office of Harvard University’s David Rockefeller Center for Latin American Studies. In addition to managing Harvard’s study abroad and work internship programs in Chile and neighboring countries, Steve is very involved in many of the community organizations (schools, orphanages, after-school centers, etc) which strive to bring hope and opportunity to the city’s underprivileged and at-risk youth. Steve’s altruistic relationship with Chile began in the early 1980’s working at a small orphanage in one of Santiago’s poorer neighborhoods (“poblaciones”). His story is an interesting one, especially given the timing which coincided with a severe economic crisis and the consequent political uprising against Pinochet’s military dictatorship in Chile. I’m currently reading and very much enjoying Steve’s captivating book, Santiago’s Children, which he published just last year.

Santiago, Chile ! ! ! (By: Mary)

Look how far we've come!!! That picture was from the flight to Dublin (Before I barfed all over the aisle)

Soooo, as you know, right now, we are in Santiago, Chile! It is like the whole city is "city looking," there isnt a neighboorhood that we've been to yet without feeling like we're in a huge city. (You're probably thinking, "Of course it all looks like a big city, You're in a big city!")

We have met some people from the VE Global organization. We will be here for about 3 more weeks working at a school on the other side of town, with 4 and 5 year olds who have learning disabilities.

I, for the first time, am trying to arrange one part of the trip. I picked the Amazon. It's HUGE! To have to find a hotel, where the hotel should be, well, there aren't many options for the Amazon River. But, it's hard work!

A few blocks down the road, we found a American sports bar/restaurant so Chase and Dad are watching March Madness. (Also, they have the BEST mexican food!)

Chase is taking Driver's Ed Online. I don't know if I should be excited about that or not, but at least Mom will make him drive me around everywhere. =)

I am having alot of fun speaking Spanish and being able to communicate with foreign people. I don't conjugate all the verbs but they get the idea.

Well done. You guys have been very good lately with your commenting. =) Keep it Up!!!

Chile

We’re in Chile now, after coming across the Andes to the small lake town of Puerto Varas (south of Osorno) and then taking an overnight bus up to Santiago. Charlie found an apartment for us with two bedrooms, so we can stay comfortably, albeit closely-knit, and begin another chapter of volunteer work. We have met with the directors of VE Global (http://www.voluntariosesperanza.org/joomla/) and they are willing to work us into their organization for the next few weeks. Normally, young adult volunteers who come to work with VE make a commitment of no less than six months, which is understandable when thinking about consistency in the lives of orphans or at-risk children. Our family will be helping out at an elementary school through a variety of workshops – everything from teaching games to cooking classes to songs. Next week we anticipate a couple days of orientation with VE Global before getting started with the actual work opportunity.

As we’ve seen time and time again, a mere acquaintance has helped get us connected beyond anything we could have asked for. A former Merrill Lynch colleague of Charlie’s has introduced us to not only the staff of VE Global, but to another Chilean friend who instituted some of the first pro-bono legal services in Chile. After only meeting him for lunch, he graciously handed over the keys to his beach house near Zapallar, two hours north of Santiago.

Slightly more than two months remain of our time abroad. Now we see it flying by, but each of us has a bit of homesickness, as well. Jane, Chase & Mary continue to get along really well, unless Jane is annoyed by Chase, who is annoyed with Mary, who is frustrated by Chase (but he lives between two girls, so he has an excuse). All of us continue to think that Charlie spends too much time on the computer, nobody appreciates my bouts of grumpiness, Mary still won’t pick up a book to read and sharing bathrooms may be the bain (sic) of our entire existence. We do, however, spend a lot of time recounting the things we’ve learned along the way and rejoicing in the friendships that God has given us with people all over the world. We have bets on who will be the first to land on our doorstep for a California adventure.

Yesterday was Jane’s 18th birthday. Our best attempt at a major celebration included streamers, balloons, pointy party hats, and dancing around to ABBA songs at full volume. Gifts this year come in the form of “vale por” certificates. “This coupon is good for (vale por) _________." Those gifts travel well – lightweight and don’t take up room in your suitcase. Jane is two inches taller than I am now and Chase is one, but he’s still growing! His voice is a little crackly and my guess is that he’ll shave within the year, but don’t tell him I told you.

Our Journey in Argentina

Bariloche (Jane)

Currently we are in Bariloche, aka the Swiss Alps of Argentina. We are staying at a hosteria located right on Lago Guieirrez, which reminds us of Lake Tahoe, though not as big. Here we have been playing tennis (there is hope that one day I will beat Chase), playing big stakes poker (with rocks from the beach), swimming in the lake, and playing frisbee (ouch). We are spending a lot of time with the Makek family--Sofia is 16 and Tomas is 14. Now to explain who they are: their father, Andres, was an exchange student in my dad's house for a year in high school. Now, my dad's brother John, my aunt Brigid, my grandpa Bud, and Ritsy are all here for a small family reunion. Last night we ordered a couple boxes of empanadas (cheese and grilled onion empanadas might be my new favorite food) and ate them on the grass in front of the lake on a warm summer's night. Good times!!

I can't believe we have been in Argentina for over two months, it has flown by! Before coming here I had no idea that Argentina was so interesting and beautiful… I love it!! There are so many different parts of this country; we've now been in the big city of BA, the Patagonian desert of Gaiman, the beaches in Pinamar, the glaciers in El Calafate, the open wilderness of the estancia (ranch), and now the mountains of Bariloche. We really should put up a map of Argentina on this blog.

World's End

Charlie: El Calafate, which sits on the south shore of Argentina’s biggest lake (Lago Argentino), is a small tourist town of only 7000 locals, but swells to over 200k during the busy summer season. It is said that 95% of all tourists who come here are foreigners, the big attraction being the Los Glaciares National Park. The park is named for the glaciers on the Ice Caps - the largest continental ice extension after Anctartica- which occupies almost half its area. There are 47 big glaciers, the most famous of which is the Perito Moreno glaciar (above). There are also more than 200 smaller glaciers, unconnected to the Ice Caps
Elsewhere in the world, glaciers form higher than 8000 feet above sea level but here, because of the Ice Caps, at only 5000 feet above sea level and huge pressure of the ancient snowfall on top, they flow down to lake level, allowing the amazing view and ability to approach so closely.

Colleen: Words cannot describe (at least not mine) our last week of seeing God's creation. We have seen these incredible glaciers, by land and by boat, and we remain speechless in their enormity. The sound of a crashing pieces off the face were unbelievable. From El Calafate we booked a ride in a Land Rover with a great local guide to an estancia, or ranch, 120 miles away. Thinking that would be a smooth go for a couple of hours was not to remember where we were. Yes, an easy flight for a crow, but the roads for automobiles are far inferior. One could call it bumpy, but you'd miss the images of rocks, ditches, desert, rivers across the way, and as the day became night, rabbits scurrying out of our path like rats leaving a lit kitchen. Five hours later, in the dark, with sore bums, we arrived at El Condor. We woke up the next morning and saw the lakes and surrounding mountains that we'd unknowingly passed the night before.

Our first horseback ride took us into those mountains up to the Condorera -- cliffs where the great condors roost and fly. Day two brought iffy weather, but our wranglers decided we should chance the five hour adventure in order to arrive at La Nana for an overnight stay. No electricity, no refrigeration, no telephones, and the most awesome landscape I may have ever seen. Heaven. We lodged in a little house they've built there devoting an entire day to fishing, reading, and hiking. Heaven. So far from civilization, stars that fill the sky to a milky white in their abundance...Heaven. The next day we headed back to El Condor, galloping through trails and across meadows at breakneck speed. Heaven. The ranchers welcomed us home with a barbecued lamb dinner and we met new guests from Slovenia and Mexico.




All of the lakes have this milky green color because of a calcium mineral that comes from the glacier ice.








On our return trek to the Calafate airport, we saw more guanacos (llamas), a black eagle, choiques (ostriches), an armadillo, and lots of sheep. Legend has it that whoever eats the berries from a Calafate bush will return to the area, so we loaded up on fresh jam! Heaven.